Lynmouth Bouldering

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Lynmouth, East or West is possibly the spiritual home of Culm Coast Bouldering. Set on the edge of Exmoor National Park, it is the frontier of what lies hidden, the secret spots and hard to access blocks are all locked behind the veneer of Lynmouth. You may or may not mix it with the locals, just as likely, you will meet the bouldering nomad here, they who travel far to sample the stones, do battle with the tides and are, to be fair, the true essence of bouldering. The history is old and the story is still unfolding, Cleverdon, Westlake, Adams and Edwards are the names that whisper on the trade winds here, their vision and that of others made the games here possible. In the modern day, Lynmouth still offers up new gems and challenges for all comers, Sillery Sands has much to go at, and the West sector, with it's unique walk in has several class blocks and highballs.

Above is Adam Wheeler on the famous taverese at Lynmouth.

Lynmouth is also home to a few caves, often wet but that's all part of the struggle on the coast, getting the tides and conditions right is part of the challenge. It also has an 8a problem which might raise the profile for a while, depending how long the holds last.

Below, one of the Lynmouth Caves climbed by visiting climber Keith Barnes. This line goes at around 6b and is a quality rig.

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Lynmouth also offers up a few good traverses, these are quite stiff and rely on good contact strength to pull on the smooth slopers that are washed daily by the rising tides.

Lynmouth West requires some tide dodging and boulder hopping out from the southern carpark, jump the wall and head into the zone. You will find a giant arete, a wave cut platform, see below, and many other fine Culm boulders, some old and a few new ones from Ruby Peach and Kyle Whitehand. Grant Edwards put up a superb traverse on the massive boulder which also has a short steep problem on its rear side, which is a Mikey Cleverdon addition I think.

Below is The Board, which is better when climbed into, from the left, to give Valencia.

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